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Beadnell Bay, Beadnell, Chathill, Northumberland
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Beadnell Bay, Beadnell, Chathill, NorthumberlandTime itself seems to operate in an entirely different dimension in this north-eastern oasis of tranquillity and beauty. Or is it just that this remote coastal strip remains as it has been for hundreds of years, and that the only real signs of development are a collection of amazing fortresses built nearly 1,000 years ago?

Beadnell Bay campsite, situated right next to the sea, is about two miles south of Seahouses. Despite being quite possibly the smallest seaside resort in the world, it still boasts a couple of pubs, a few chippies, and a working fishing harbour with boats running out to visit the famous Fame Islands - home of birds, but nothing (and nobody) else.

One of the best ways to discover the quiet, level back roads of Beadnell Bay is by bike. Pedal along the coast road in awe as you cruise north from Seahouses to Baniburgh Castle, eventually reaching the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. However, if walking is more your style, discover the real thrill of this coast by rambling down to the empty Embleton Bay, where you can gaze southwards to the atmospheric ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.

The site itself would be best described as unremarkable - a flat featureless field providing not a scrap of shelter to stop the occasionally wicked east wind from pummelling your tent. But all this is unimportant - did you come here to sit and ponder how glamorous the toilet block is? No. Chances are you'll be too busy falling under the spell of the empty coastline, and the history that still trembles through the air.

Beadnell Bay, Beadnell, Chathill, Northumberland

COOL FACTOR A stunningly timeless stretch of deserted coastline.

WHO'S IN? Tents, campervans, dogs - yes. Caravans - no.

ON SITE Single, exposed field with 150 pitches. Decent facilities with toilets, free hot showers, disabled toilet and shower, washing-up sinks, laundry; gas refills at reception; freezer; wi-fi. No campfires.

OFF SITE If you've done all the castles including Bamburgh (01668 214515; www.bamburghcastle.com), Alnwick (01665 510777; www.alnwickcastle.com) - famously used as a Hogwarts set in the Harry Potter films - and Dunstanburgh (01665 576231), then see what's on at the Alnwick Playhouse (01665 510785; www.alnwickplayhouse.co.uk).

FOOD AND DRINK Head to Swallow Fish (01665 721052; www.swallowfish.co.uk) in Seahouses for BBQ supplies of local seafood, including crab and sea bass, as well as their famous smoked fish (usually someone on hand to show you around the smokehouse, too). For something a little pricey but worth it, try the Tree House at Alnwick Garden (01665 511852). Or breakfast like a king on Craster kippers from L Robson & Sons (01665 576223).The Ship Inn (01665 576262) at Low Newton-by-the-Sea is worth the journey - a lovely pub with a menu rich in local seafood.

GETTING THERE From the A1, 5 miles north of Alnwick, take the B6347 east then the В1340 to Beadnell. The site is on the left after a bend to the north of Beadnell.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Train to Morpeth or Alnwick then bus no. 501, which stops 300 metres from the site.

OPEN April-October.

THE DAMAGE Adult E5.10-E8.25 per night (depending on season); child E2.55-E2.77. An additional £7.10 fee for non-members.

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