Arrive here from the east on foot or bicycle and you'll have had the pleasure of conquering both the Wrynose and Hardknott passes, the latter of which is claimed by locals to be the steepest and highest road in Britain. After such a challenge, there's nothing like discovering that your campsite has cracking showers and a small shop selling wine and local beer. What's more, if you've jettisoned your tent halfway up one of the hills, you can book yourself into one of the new wooden pods.

Eskdale is unusual among Camping and Caravanning Club (C&CC) sites in that the emphasis is very much on tents, which habitually outnumber campervans here by some margin. Aquaphiles will enjoy the fact that the little Eel Beck runs through the site, and should also take a walk to the low waterfall just a minute away.Tiny Boot village somehow runs to two pubs within stumbling distance and its own annual beer festival. It also serves as the terminus for the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, a mini narrow gauge affair that's actually extremely useful; it chugs to Ravenglass, where you can change on to a 'proper' train.

COOL FACTOR First-rate facilities in a cracking location.

WHO'S IN? Tents, small campervans, dogs, (activities-based, not stag/hen) groups - yes. Large campervans, caravans - no.

ON SITE Pitches: 80 tents; 12 campervans; 35 hook-ups; 10 pods; camping barn. Facilities: modern loos (5W, 3M); family/ disabled room (1 loo, 2 showers, baby-changer); and showers (3W, 3M); 6 washing-up sinks; washing machine (£3), dryer (£1); drying room; and washing line. Swings, trampoline, adventure playground, 2-acre wood. Ice packs - BYO or hire, both SOp. Shop/off licence sells basics. No campfires.

OFF SITE Scafell Pike and the Old Man of Coniston are on your doorstep. There's Muncaster Castle and Whitehaven's innovative Beacon museum/gallery (01946 592302) too.



FOOD AND DRINK The Woolpack Inn (01946 723230) is arguably the best pub in the area. Beer festival in June.

GETTING THERE Don't use satnav. From the A595 take a turn to Santon Bridge, from there follow signs to Eskdale Green. First left after the village; site's on the left after 2 miles.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Train to Ravenglass then on to the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway to Boot.

OPEN March-January.

THE DAMAGE £7.50-£9 (seasonal) per person, per night. Additional non-member fee £7. Camping pod £41 per night.